Surface preparation - is a “bog” good enough for patching concrete?


You strive for the best flooring system possible, so why perform concrete repair with any old “bog”?

Perhaps “bog” is a slang term from my part of the world, but generally speaking it’s a cheap patching compound used to fill cracks and voids before over-coating. The timber industry has a bog, the auto industry has a bog, the building industry has a bog - but, in my opinion, the concrete flooring industry definitely should not have a bog! Let me explain why.

What is a bog?


A bog is typically a highly filled, fast-cure product with very little resin in the mix. This makes it cheap, but prone to inconsistent adhesion and that’s exactly what you don’t want in a flooring environment. So what type of patching compound should you use?

A resin-rich epoxy patching compound being applied into a divot.

Patching compound wish list


In my opinion, I want to do concrete repair with a product that has the following properties -

  • Resin rich - a two-pack epoxy system that is rich in resin so I don’t have to worry about adhesion. When applying patching compounds, you find they tend to dry out as you scratch and scrape it across the concrete. If you start with a compound that’s dry to begin with, it will quickly become unworkable and the adhesion even more of a concern.
  • Ready to mix - a pre-formulated, ready-to-use patching compound eliminates the inconsistencies adding in bits and pieces onsite can introduce.
  • Thickness range - a patching compound that be high build or feather edge and maintain its shape regardless. Being a high-build product, I wouldn’t want any solvent or water in it as you could end up with solvent entrapment.
  • Working time - a longer standard working time is appreciated because patching can be a slow process, with the option of fast or slow cure a nice bonus.
  • Can be sanded - while sanding afterwards isn’t the aim, I’d prefer to have something that can be sanded if required.
  • Compatible - the patching compound would be totally compatible with my basecoat, e.g. didn’t cause blushing, so I could apply it wet on wet rather than having to wait for the patch to harden or dry.
  • Tintable - although not critical, I would also prefer the patching compound to be tintable in case patching was required between coats and there was a chance it could show through.

Do you have a good reliable patching compound available to you? Perhaps you have had to build your own patching compound?

Take care and keep smiling,

Jack